This is the post.Yes, the post where we get to say, “we made it”. Let the celebrations begin. On exactly our 100th day on the bike ride, we made our way to Ocean Beach in San Diego to finish the Southern Tier route and take a well earned dip in the Pacific Ocean.
Between Wickenberg AZ and San Diego CA, we hit some of the worst desert conditions on the trip. We rode through sand dunes, temperatures soared above 115 degrees, the headwinds were treacherous at times and the road conditions worsened. Some nights were sweaty and restless. All of this made riding more difficult but all of us knew we were getting so close to San Diego and gladly accepted the challenge.
For now, we’re staying in San Diego with Devin and Evan’s old roommate Tacy in Hillcrest at The Albatross Nest. Everyone here’s been over the top accommodating… great group of folks!!! We’ve gone out for California Burritos, which contains steak, french fries, guacamole, sour cream, and cheese, a San Diego specialty. Also, Carne Asada Fries which are essential a california burrito without the tortilla. Good eats and even better food comas.
Evan’s sister, Morgan came out to visit while we were all in San Diego and we also got to spend time with their cousin Luke and his partner Rob. They knew how to have a good time!!! They took us out on their boat to go wake-boarding and have a small boat party in the bay. Iggy rocked the wakeboard and was able to ride it on the second try. He was killing it!!! Myself on the other hand, I couldn’t get out of the water and was essentially plowing the water. Despite pulling my arms out of my sockets, I had a blast and I think everyone would agree.
Yesterday, Iggy and I got the chance to go to a rollerbladers “OG” bbq. All of the “Original Gangsters” of rollerblading were there. Arlo Eisenberg, Louie Zamora, Jon Julio, Dustin Latimer, and the list goes on. For me, I was pretty awestruck by finally seeing some of these people who I had idolized as a teen. Great experience. Got to skate a bit but I really just had a good time watching these guys skate.
Today, Brick Mower, an indie band from NJ of very close friends is coming to San Diego for another show on their tour. Should be pretty magical. Can’t wait.
There’s been so much going on … it’s exhaustive to write about it all. We’re having a blast in San Diego. We’ve been here for a few days now and the group is finally about to split up. Evan is renting a car to head to LA. Iggy is taking Amtrak to Laguna. Devin is figuring out how he’s going to leave. I’m planning my travel back to Phoenix so that I can carpool back to the east coast with Mishka.
Thanks to everyone who followed the blog, sent encouraging messages, donated, and supported us in any way. This may be the last blog post … maybe?
I may continue posting photos of the car ride back to NJ.
Thanks!
Eric and Iggy.
Silver City NM to Wickenburg AZ
Silver City was a lot lot lot of fun. The Bike-Works bicycle co-op (http://bikeworks-nm.org/) was a real hit for all of us, especially Iggy. Iggy spent a lot of time volunteering and helping around the co-op during his stay in Silver City. He even gave me a little crash-course on welding while we were there.
We stayed with Bob, an ambitious fellow cyclist. He gave us a comfortable abode where he cooked us a few meals and let us feast on some delicious beers. We also reunited with Bryan’s BBQ, as he came into Silver City to try out a new spot for his BBQ truck. Reunited and it feels so good. Thanks Bryan for connecting us with Bob and of course, the bbq. We all have an itch to learn more about smoking now. We even got to traverse on a small rock climbing wall while in Silver City.
Then, we crossed into Arizona!!! Goodbye New Mexico. It was short but sweet. There was a distinct difference in the landscape as we entered into AZ. Coming out of New Mexico through the Apache National Forest, there was an AWESOME downhill for a number of miles. The scenery was EPIC. Coincidentally, none of us took pictures because at the moment, we felt so much better just experiencing the scenery and the riding. It looked unreal, with red tinted mountains sprawling miles into the distance with steep cliffs lining our peripherals. Definite highlight for me.
A few days after Silver City we were hosted by Charles and Mari, in Globe AZ. They allowed us to take over their full amenity guest house for the night. There we met Daniel, a touring cyclist from Chicago who is on his way back east now. It was a great coincidence meeting him because at Le Loma Del Chivo, the hostel we stayed at in Marathon Texas, we saw a car that was intricately painted. That was Ingrid’s car which was of course, painted by Daniel! Lots of fun was had. Thanks Charles and Mari. Good luck on your next tandem!
Phoenix/Tempe
In Phoenix, Iggy and I ended up spending some time apart. No, no, no, it’s not what it seems. We’re cool I promise. I just ended up spending most of my time north of Tempe, with Mishka. Mishka is Evan and Devin’s friend from Florida. Iggy ended up staying with John, a friend of Iggy’s from the last time he was down in Tempe.
So this is a short account of what happened while I was with Mishka.
That being said, I had a great time in Phoenix. Mishka was a BOMB host and I hope we can meet up once we’re both back on the east coast. Thanks for everything Mishka!!!
Now we’re in the Wickenburg library, doing our thang. Devin is actually sleeping right behind me. I’m going to take a photo of it. And you’re going to look at it and you’re going to laugh.
Only about 2 days out of the California state line now and maybe a week or so from San Diego. We are on the final set of maps out of the 7 that are a part of the Southern Tier. This is the point where I would say how many miles we have come … but I didn’t mention that my cycling computer was stolen while I was in Phoenix. So the total miles of this trip will never be known exactly but only estimated. Oh well, as long as I still have my bike..
Hatch NM - Silver City NM
Iggy and I split up coming into Silver City, so this blog post is my account of the past 2-3 days.
So the past few days have been some of the most grueling of the tour. I climbed Emory Pass, reaching our highest elevation of 8228 feet. Then yesterday I rode into the Gila Wilderness where there was only one way in and one way out. That was tough since we had to climb over Copperas Peak (elev. 7799 ft.) both in and out.
Today, we had to climb out from the Gila wilderness into Silver City and I had about had it. This morning I was riding by myself, throwing temporary hissy fits as an array of flying insects did circles, buzzing around my head and occasionally bumping into my face or landing on me to see if I’d let them stay there long enough to bite me. Thankfully, those were the worst climbs we will deal with for a while and that should be the last of my hissy fits.
Now, I’m hanging at the Western New Mexico University library. Beautiful campus and a solid internet connection! Now I may indulge in some fast food to reward myself for the climbs.
Sanderson TX to Hatch NM
We finally did it. Made it through Texas. Texas, it’s been great but I think it’s time we see other states.
Marathon TX- Cool town off of Route 90 in West Texas. Small population but had the first pizza place we had seen since Austin so we treated ourselves. In Marathon we got to stay at La Loma Del Chivo. This is a great hostel located at the top of a hill in Marathon that overlooks the Glass Mountains. And it doesn’t stop there, all of the buildings are made out of sustainable materials and the hostel offers a great sense of community and openness. I’d love to go back one day and spend a little longer.
Marfa TX- Hippest town with a population under 3,000. It’s become a hotspot for artists and interesting people. We took a 20 mile ride into Marfa and took the day as a rest day. It was plenty of fun exploring this tiny city. Iggy did the unthinkable, the impossible, the craziest thing done on the entire trip. IGGY SHAVED HIS BEARD. Yes, HIS BEARD. Who knew such a handsome fella was hidden underneath all those whiskers. We ended up spending a lot of time at the library (which is not uncommon) and eventually Ryan, the greatest librarian in ALL OF MARFA, offered to host us for the night. Turns out him and Katie Rose were some awesome people to run into. I went over to hang with Ryan and Katie Rose to watch the sunset, while Iggy, Devin and Evan went to a rock show at the bookstore. Somehow, some way, Marfa separates itself from many of the other small towns in Texas. Well done Marfa, well done.
Van Horn TX- We had a long ride from Marfa to Van Horn but were anticipating meeting our Warmshowers host, Bethany and Gary. These two make a great name for warmshowers hosts. Bethany made us shakes, dinner, and breakfast in the morning. We were treated like four kings during our stay in Van Horn. Devin’s rim cracked on the ride into Van Horn and Bethany went above and beyond to drive Devin to El Paso, the nearest place where he could get a new wheel. You two turned Van Horn to a haven for cyclists on the Southern Tier. Good luck on your tour and thank you so much!
El Paso TX- We stayed with Frank, a bicycle mechanic who is friends with some touring cyclists who Evan and Devin passed earlier in the trip. El Paso was almost surreal. We had been close to the border in other parts of texas but from El Paso, you can see Juarez, Mexico clear as day. Devin went over to taste some of the regional delicacy and get some authentic Mexican tequila.
Iggy and I got to go skating since Iggy got connected with Ryan through a rollerblading messageboard. Ryan drove us to two different skate parks, introduced us to the El Paso crew, and had a few savory mexican meals with us. Ryan, thanks my man. Keep in touch.
The four of us went with Frank to a BMX/show/lock in. We got to try “racing” on Desert Downs BMX track in El Paso. Unfortunately, Iggy, Evan, and Devin all took some pretty gnarly spills. They have the scabs, limps, bumps, and bruises to prove it. But I think everybody managed to have plenty of fun even though some damage was done.
The last night in El Paso, we ended up at Black Market, where Eddy, Franks roommate is a bartender. It was kareoke night and Evan and Iggy were certainly up to it. Evan held it down to Gwen Stefani’s - Shit (bananas). And Iggy got wild to B52’s - Rock Lobster and Ryan and Iggy rocked Van Halen’s - Jump.
Thanks Frank for showing us around and giving us a great place to stay. Forever grateful. Hope you get to go on a tour one day. You’d love it!
Now we’ve made our way into New Mexico. The nights get chilly and the days are blistering. Yesterday it was 106 degrees. The next major stop is Tempe Arizona where we will do some more rollerblading and hopefully get a chance to go rock climbing. We will be sticking around for a few days.
California is only a few weeks away! We just have to get through some brutal desert, Emory pass (biggest climb of the trip), and not kill each other first. Thanks for reading!
Kerrville TX - Sanderson TX
Texas is big. The land is expansive and diverse. Plenty of vegetation east of Austin TX and now it’s drying out as we get farther west. We’re out of “hill country” now. Aside from a few steep climbs, it wasn’t as dreadful as other riders had suggested.
We have adapted a new strategy the past few days in order to minimize our exposure to the extreme heat. We get up before the sun rises and ride until noon or early afternoon. We try to plan it so we can into the next populated town (which yesterday meant 17 people, in Langtry TX) before the extreme heat sets in.
In Kerrville we stayed with Pat and Walker, our couchsurfing hosts. They kicked butt. I had a painful toothache and they made me comfortable for the night so I could get to the dentist the next day. Next time we’re in Kerrville, it will be for the folk festival and we’ll have more time to spend with Pat and Walker. Thanks for extending the hospitality you two!
The next day, after trying 4 dentist offices, I found the one who could see my right away. Dr. Butler in Kerrville TX, who is coincidentally also a cyclist was able to take care of the toothache (you know it’s bad when you cant eat pizza because of the tooth pain). He made my bite align better and took the pressure off the tooth. I’m almost all better now!!! Thanks Dr. Butler, you’re the man.
Del Rio was a neat little town/city that borders Mexico. We got to chat with some border patrol and later went through a border patrol checkpoint. We got some authentic mexican food from Poncho’s and Devin now deeply regrets not taking the super burrito challenge. 9 dollars for a 4-5 pound burrito that you get for free if you finish in 15 minutes. Judging by how much food Devin ate, he could probably have done it. Next time…
We’ve been doing a bit more camping lately. Sometimes off the highway (with 1 car passing every 2 hours) or near a lake where we wouldn’t be disturbed. Tonight we will be staying behind a motel who gave us permission to set up our tents for free.
Next few days might be tough. Potentially no water for 90 miles, which we’ve been preparing for; buying new bottles, dromedarys, camelbacks, gatorade powder. We are officially in the desert!
Austin, Texas. We ended up spending a few days in Austin so we could really try to take it in and experience it. And that we did.
As soon as we got in, we asked a stranger, John, who’s a touring cyclist who was on a day ride, for directions. Of course we hit it off, end up getting some beers and going down to a river where we can cool off. John works at the Yellow Bikes Project which is the bicycle co-op in Austin. Such an awesome place. Iggy and I stayed with Sarah, Robert, and Django who were friends of Evans friend of a friend of friend. And it couldn’t have been better. I think everybody really got a good taste of Austin. We did a lot of things in a fairly short amount of time. We swam the rivers, the springs, saw the sunset, experienced the nightlife, learned to navigate downtown, saw the bike co-op, saw Shakespeare acted on bicycles, had the highest regarded BBQ in Austin among plenty of other fun.
Now we’re headed west. Taking our time and moving fast. We stayed in Comfort last night, on their town park. While there Robert, the Ice-Cream truck driver insisted on giving us free ice-cream. Thanks Robert! We’re in Kerrville Texas now, using their beautiful library. We found a gem of a spot on the way in today. Sweet rope swing and spot on the Guadalupe River. Devin climbed up a tree to take the rope swing from its highest point and Iggy tried to backflip off of it. Fun. Fun. Fun.
Major blog update. BIG NEWS! It’s not just the two of us any more. We met Evan and Devin in Shephard Texas. The two who are going from Sarasota FL to San Diego on the same route as us. They are seasoned cycling tourists and are plenty of fun to be around. It adds a whole new dynamic to the trip and we’re all happy to have joined forces. We plan to make it out to CA together. Buddy system x 2.
We found an iPad on the side of the road. Yes, an Apple iPad. It was working, powered on, fully charged, screen wasn’t cracked. WHOA. It didn’t take long for Iggy and I to get over the fact that we had found something awesome and realize somebody lost something awesome. In the next town over, Iggy called Apple and gave them his information so the iPad owner could get in touch with him. He did and we made the exchange (he gave us $20 for our honesty).. :) Feels good to do the right thing. Even though it would have made updating the blog and all that internetty stuff real easy on the trip, we’d feel guilty every time we opened it up.
On our way to Burton Texas, we passed through Independence Texas, where we met Walter. Walter was energized when he heard what we were doing and we were going spend the night in Independence so it was a pleasure to hang out and talk to him. We found out that his sister passed away recently in a bicycle related accident and Iggy and I wanted to give him our condolence. We convinced Walter that he should make a profile on warmshowers so that he could host cyclists as they came through the area. It was great meeting you Walter, all the best!
On our way out of Independence, we took a break in a nice piece of shade where we talked to Danny, who was mowing his lawn with his tractor. With a little chatting, Danny offered Iggy and I to drive his tractor since we never had before. That was interesting..
Devin and Evan met up with us there and we were on our way to our host in Burton Texas when we were flagged down by a driving cyclist. He told us to go to the Gay Hill Cycling Club and tell them John sent us. He also told us we looked like we needed a watermelon, so he tossed one out of his car to us. We pulled up to the cycling club and were welcomed with open arms .. beer .. and liquor. Steve was the temporary host in our mid-afternoon cycling club session, giving us some authentic Texas tequila and open-season on his liquor cabinet/fridge. As Steve insisted, we took it up a notch. The club house was awesome. It was not your ordinary 10 year old club house. It was an entire house where the cyclists would meet up after their ride and hang. Thanks for making that happen Steve!
After a few hours hanging with the Gay Hill Cycling Club, we finally rode into Burton to meet our warmshowers host, Carol. She was AMAZING. I think all four of us fell in love. She cooked us dinner, she showed us her 1929 and 1930 Model A Fords, she talked about how she built her own timber framed house, and that she was the oldest rider in the MS150 (a 150 mile bike ride from Houston to Austin to raise money for Multiple Sclerosis; the biggest fundraiser in America). She was a great host. If you’re ever in Burton Texas, you have to meet her. We stayed in the second story of one of her barns that was modified to bunk about 10 cyclists at any one time. Plus it had a great view and a refreshing cross breeze. Thanks Carol. We had a blast.